Dremel’s chainsaw sharpening kit (#1453) is a fantastic little Dremel attachment to have, but the instructions that came with it were a little confusing. So I took some pictures while shapening my own chainsaw.
Here is the kit itself (Ordering Info):

This is what my chainsaw teeth looked like before sharpening:

The kit comes with 3 grinding wheels. Blue (5/32″), Pink (7/32″), and Orange-Brown (3/16″). Figure out which grinder wheel to using by sliding each into the tooth. One of them should match the curve on the inside of the tooth. That is the one to use. I used the Orange-Brown wheel for my Poulan Pro.

Assemble the attachment as pictured here. If you use the Pink grinding wheel, use both spacers. If you use the Orange-Brown wheel, use one spacer. If you are using the Blue wheel, you don’t need to use a spacer. The spacer keeps the grinding wheel away from the guide. In the photo here, you can see the unit put together. Notice that I have one spacer between the guide and the plastic body (since I am using the orange-brown wheel). Don’t fully tighten the screws yet.

You will need to use the guage to adjust the guide.

Use the side of the guage labeled “side 1″. I don’t know why they have “side 1″ as there is no “side 2″. With the guage fitting against the guide as pictured here, adjust the guide so the wheel just touches the guage, then tighten the screws.

Lay the chainsaw in front of you with the motor to the right. You are first going to sharpen the teeth on the far side of the bar. Power up the Dremel, and insert the spinning grinding wheel into the first tooth. Line up the index line with the bar, and stroke the grinding wheel in and out of the tooth a few times with light pressure against the cutting edge of the tooth. Move the chain around, and sharpen the next tooth until all of the teeth on the far side are sharpened.


Turn the chainsaw around so the motor is now on your left. Now sharpen the teeth on the opposite side of the bar as described above, but with guide lined up as pictured here:

After getting the unit put together, it only took a minute or two to sharpen all the teeth. And since you have the unit adjusted, next time you will only need to remount it onto you Dremel motor, and sharpen away. This is what my teeth looked like after sharpening them:


Thanks for the useful info!!
Comment by Chain Saw Dad — May 18, 2009 @ 10:57 am
Really useful info and photos! Thanks very much!
Comment by New to Dremel — May 25, 2009 @ 12:28 am
thanks very much for all the clear pictures and detailed instruction!
Comment by just bought a stihl — June 8, 2009 @ 8:36 pm
I have been told that sharpening a chain with thw Dremel tool will overheat the chain and damage it, shortening the chain life. Is that true?
Comment by S. D. Moorer — August 12, 2009 @ 5:49 pm
Do not turn the chainsaw around so the motor is on your left – the guide needs to rest on the cutting blade – not on the chain’s depth gauge as the depth gauge is lower than the cutting blade.
Comment by Hans — August 20, 2009 @ 1:09 am
Good guide, but Hans is right, you don’t want that guide setting on the depth gauge. The dremel instructions are incorrect. It’s a shame they don’t fix this error and provide the correct guides.
Comment by bo jackson — August 31, 2009 @ 8:53 am
Informative..clear and simple kudos
Comment by Rich — September 10, 2009 @ 10:41 pm
I LOVE this post, it just gets straight to the point!
I am linking to this for sure.
~Kelly
Comment by Kelly Anne – Recessed Lighting — November 16, 2009 @ 4:10 am
haha… “straight to the .point.” hehe…
Comment by Kelly Anne – Recessed Lighting — November 16, 2009 @ 4:11 am
That is so useful and will hopefully get my husband to sort his out so that he can finally get going in the garden lol.
Comment by Jill — January 28, 2010 @ 7:37 pm
Great! Got the job done right the first time. Thanks for the clear, concise and illustrated instructions. Your help was appreciated.
Comment by Angelo — March 16, 2010 @ 4:11 pm
At what point can you no longer sharpen a chainsaw chain? I’ve been using a dremel to sharpen my chain for quite some time and I’ve been wondering how long before you shouldn’t sharpen the blade anymore.
Comment by billf — April 2, 2010 @ 7:12 pm
The Dremel guide is good, but this one is much more informative , and the photos are great ! Thank you.
Comment by Yigal — April 3, 2010 @ 4:00 am
Stay on top of the cutters-not the depth gauges. Beyond belief that Dremel gets this wrong. Also, the grinders wear down; has anyone tried the diamond dust-coated ones?
Comment by EasternMass — May 24, 2010 @ 12:53 pm
I agree with the other comments. Really informative artcile. The pictures are great. Thanks.
Comment by roller shutter garage doors — June 1, 2010 @ 6:56 am
How do I put my comment in Russian?
Comment by madmax — July 2, 2010 @ 1:38 pm
On April 2 BillF mentioned a user guide that’s better than Dremel’s, but he didn’t say what it is. Anyone know? Thanks.
Comment by Jerry — July 3, 2010 @ 8:23 am
“On April 2 BillF mentioned a user guide that’s better than Dremel’s, but he didn’t say what it is. Anyone know? Thanks.”
uh, i think he’s talking about this one.
Comment by mike — December 22, 2010 @ 1:02 pm
He’s talking about these directions, not a mechanical guide. Simply lay the ‘mechanical’ guide on the cutting blade as you sharpen, but do both side at one time, with the chain saw motor on your right. Do not sharpen the chain with the motor on your left as the ‘guide’ will rest on the depth guage instead of the cutting blade.
Comment by Hank — March 1, 2011 @ 5:00 pm
I have a Black and Decker ‘Wizard’, which is pretty similar to the Dremel. Will this chainsaw sharpener fit this rotary tool?
Comment by Dave Hall — May 8, 2011 @ 12:24 pm
Thanks. I was scratching my head after reading the dremel instructions. Your photos were very helpful.
Comment by Ted — May 8, 2011 @ 4:52 pm
I have now bought one and tried, and the Dremel Chainsaw Sharpener will fit onto the Black and Decker Wizard, so is even more universally useful than ever!
Comment by Dave Hall — May 12, 2011 @ 11:35 am
[...] How to sharpen a chain saw using Dremel's Chain Saw Sharpening Kit … Jan 4, 2006 … Dremel's chainsaw sharpening kit (#1453) is a fantastic little …. The pictures are great. Thanks. … [...]
Pingback by Chainsaw sharpening pictures — July 20, 2011 @ 3:36 pm
I just bought the Dremel chainsaw kit yesterday at Menards. The instructions have been updated to indicate that all teeth should be sharpened with the engine on your right, and specifically state that the guide should rest on the cutting tooth, not the depth gauge. Maybe someone at Dremel saw this page.
Anyway, the instructions still leave something to be desired and this page was a huge help in clarification. Also, if you are not exactly sure what the pitch of your chain is, check the teeth. I have a Stihl saw and found that the pitch (3/8 for my chain) was actually stamped on each cutting tooth towards the front of the link. Just eyeballing it I would have used the orange grinder, but the appropriate grinder for 3/8 pitch is actually the pink one.
Comment by Kirk — August 3, 2011 @ 11:56 am
Just bought Dremel sharpener kit from B&Q. Instructions in every european language other than English your guide was therefor invaluable-thank you so much.
Comment by Alex — January 19, 2012 @ 9:48 am
hi, while i appreciate somene has taken the trouble to photograph the process, they should be amended as they are WRONG! as per several other comments, the guide should always be pressing down on the top of the tooth – that is the whole point of using the spacers and guaging it. it also holds the tooth steady while cutting.
Comment by andy — March 18, 2012 @ 7:57 am
Looking at the finished product something went very wrong. This tooth wouldn’t cut warm butter. The cutting edge is 90 degrees to the top of the chain. You also need to file down the depth guard a bit each time you sharpen.
Comment by booie — August 23, 2012 @ 1:38 pm
Ditto booie’s comment. Should have used the 5/32″ stone. The cutter is on the top, not the side!
Comment by ontariobill — November 11, 2012 @ 4:04 pm
Thanks, very much useful as the chainsaw sharpening kit I bought came with two instruction booklets – both the same, neither with English instructions! I tried a google translate on one of the eastern European languages in them, but your instructions are much clearer.
Also, my kit had four grinding burrs – blue/grey (4mm), white (4.5mm), orange (4.8mm), pink (5.5mm).
Comment by Robert — March 30, 2013 @ 6:22 am
The cutter is still dull, you have to sharpen until the shinny edge is gone. The only time you can burn a cutter is by pushing or forcing it to sharpen. I also seen him rocking the dremel while going back-en forth with it. Don’t do this, make sure the line stays straight with the bar. Watch the cutter while your sharping. The chain this guy is trying to sharpen has been brunt from being run dull. Look at the top surface of the cutter it is gray, this would have to be all filed out. There would be very little chain left, better off putting a new one on. This person knows very little about sharping a chain.
Comment by Duane Nelson — June 1, 2013 @ 1:01 pm